Post-Inspection Checklist
The 5-step framework 8,200+ 2026 buyers used to triage findings, line up specialist quotes, pick a negotiation lever, and close cleanly — all inside the contingency window.
TL;DR — the five moves, in order
Read twice → triage into 5 buckets → schedule specialist quotes for everything in Bucket 1+2 → pick credit / repair / price / walk → document everything and re-inspect 2–3 days before closing. Skip step 3 (specialist quotes) and you give up ~80% of your leverage.
Read the full report twice — same day
A 2026 inspection report averages 42 pages. Most buyers skim it once, focus on the summary, and miss the items buried in the body. Read it twice the same day you receive it. Highlight anything you don't understand — those are the questions you bring back to the inspector.
First read: full document, every photo caption.
Second read: just the section summaries + photos.
Mark anything with the words: 'recommend further evaluation', 'safety', 'older than expected service life', 'consider replacement', or 'monitor'.
Note the inspector's age estimates for: roof, HVAC, water heater, electrical panel, plumbing supply lines.
Sort every finding into 5 buckets
Most reports list 80+ items. Only 3–8 actually drive negotiation. Use the 5-bucket framework to separate signal from noise before you talk to anyone — your agent, the seller, or your inspector.
Bucket 1 — Safety / urgent: gas leaks, exposed wiring, structural movement, recalled panel, active water intrusion.
Bucket 2 — Major financial risk: roof past life, AC past life, polybutylene plumbing, foundation, sewer line.
Bucket 3 — Negotiable mid-tier: aging water heater, ungrounded outlets, missing GFCI, gutter/drainage issues.
Bucket 4 — Cosmetic / DIY: paint, caulk, mulch, screen replacement.
Bucket 5 — Already-disclosed or accepted-as-is: pre-existing items you already knew about and priced into your offer.
Schedule specialist follow-ups for every Bucket 1 + 2 item
Inspector summaries get token leverage. A licensed plumber's written quote for a $9,400 polybutylene repipe carries ~10x the negotiating weight of 'plumbing material is polybutylene; recommend evaluation by a licensed plumber.' Front-load these so quotes return inside the contingency window.
Structural engineer if foundation, basement walls, or floor levelness was flagged — $400–$800.
Sewer scope if pre-1970 home or any drain concern — $150–$300. Non-negotiable in older neighborhoods.
HVAC tech for any AC/furnace flagged 'older than service life' — many will quote replacement free.
Licensed electrician if Federal Pacific, Zinsco, Pushmatic, Challenger panel — $0 for visit, written quote ~$300.
Roofer for any roof flagged with active issues or past 80% of life — written quote with line items.
Pick a negotiation strategy — credit, repair, price cut, or walk
The four levers carry different leverage, speed, and quality tradeoffs. Pick before you re-engage the seller — never mid-conversation. Credit is usually the strongest move for buyers: you control quality, timeline, and contractor.
Repair credit at closing — you control the work, the contractor, and the timeline. Best for items above $1,500.
Price reduction — cleanest paperwork; reduces your basis and recurring property tax slightly. Best when the cash matters more than the work.
Seller-completed repair — fastest, but you inherit whatever contractor / quality the seller chose. Best for items under $1,000 or anything requiring permits the seller already has open.
Walk-away — always on the table inside the contingency window. Use it for foundation, sewer, panel-uninsurability, environmental issues, or any cumulative repair total above ~5% of price.
Anchor your ask at the sum of specialist quotes — never the inspector's general estimate.
Document everything; schedule a re-inspection if seller is fixing items
Every credit, repair receipt, and warranty needs to land in writing before closing. If the seller is completing repairs, schedule the $150–$300 re-inspection. Don't take their word — and don't take photos as proof of professional work.
Amendment language must list each repair with: scope, contractor name, permit if required, written proof of completion.
Re-inspection scheduled 2–3 days before closing — gives time to renegotiate if anything isn't done.
All credits appear on the Closing Disclosure as line items — verify 3 days before closing.
Save warranties on any newly-installed equipment (water heater, AC, etc.) — most transfer to new owner if registered within 30 days.
Upload your inspection report + amendment + final disclosure to your home file. You'll need them at sale.
Skip the manual triage
Upload the PDF — HomeScore's Inspection Analyzer auto-sorts every finding into the 5 buckets and ranks them by cost + leverage in under 60 seconds. Free.
Frequently asked
What is the first thing to do after a home inspection?
Read the full report twice the same day, then sort every finding into 5 buckets: safety/urgent, major financial risk, negotiable mid-tier, cosmetic/DIY, and already-disclosed. Most reports list 80+ items; only 3–8 actually drive negotiation. The triage step is where buyers go from overwhelmed to in-control.
How long do I have to act after a home inspection?
Most contingency windows are 7–14 days from the offer date — and the clock keeps running while you read the report. Book the inspection in the first 3 days of contract; that leaves 4–11 days for specialist follow-ups, negotiation, and amendment drafting. Always confirm your exact contingency timeline with your agent.
Should I ask the seller to fix items or take a credit?
Credit is usually stronger for items above $1,500 — you control the contractor, scope, and timeline. Seller-completed repairs are fine for items under $1,000 or anything that requires permits the seller already has open. Anchor any ask at the sum of written specialist quotes, never the inspector's general estimate.
What should I do if the seller refuses to negotiate after the inspection?
Three options inside your contingency window: (1) accept the home as-is and budget the repairs yourself, (2) lower your ceiling and counter with a smaller credit ask, or (3) walk away. The contingency exists specifically so the inspection report can be a deal-breaker. Use it for: foundation issues, recalled electrical panels, polybutylene plumbing, environmental issues, or any cumulative repair total above ~5% of price.
Do I need a re-inspection if the seller fixes items?
Yes — schedule it 2–3 days before closing. Cost is $150–$300 and it's the only way to verify professional-grade completion. Photos from the seller are not proof. If anything isn't done correctly, you still have time to renegotiate or pull the credit before signing.