What NOT to Fix After a Home Inspection
Fixing the wrong items costs the average buyer or seller $8,000–$18,000 they didn't need to spend. Ten items HomeScore recommends you skip, defer, or document instead — with the 2026 dollar logic behind each.
The 10-item skip list
Don't guess — analyze the report
Upload your inspection PDF. HomeScore ranks every finding by financial + safety risk and tells you which items are worth fixing now.
Frequently asked
What should you not fix after a home inspection?+
Cosmetic, normal-wear, and discretionary items: drywall hairline cracks, original cabinets in working order, aging-but-functional windows, old appliances that still work, driveway cracks, and HVAC systems with several years of life left. Spend repair dollars on safety, structural, water, and 'will-fail-in-12-months' items only.
What repairs are buyers responsible for after a home inspection?+
In most contracts, the buyer takes ownership of every item not specifically negotiated in the inspection response. That includes cosmetic issues, deferred maintenance, end-of-life systems, and code items not flagged as safety hazards. The buyer's negotiation window is short — make it count on the items that matter financially.
Should I fix old appliances before selling my house?+
Generally no. Buyers in 2026 expect to upgrade appliances on their own taste — and pre-emptive replacements return 40–60 cents per dollar. Exceptions: a non-working oven, a dishwasher that leaks, or a refrigerator that doesn't cool. Anything actually broken gets fixed; anything 'old but working' stays.
Do I have to fix everything on a home inspection report?+
No. A home inspection report is a documented opinion — it has no contractual force on its own. Only items written into your purchase agreement's inspection response (or a state-mandated repair) require action. Most sellers fix 20–40% of inspection items, prioritizing safety + structural.
What's the difference between deferred maintenance and a real defect?+
Deferred maintenance is age-related wear that hasn't yet failed: aging shingles, original windows, older HVAC. A defect is something that has failed or is actively causing damage: leaking roof, failed HVAC, water intrusion, recalled electrical panel. Defects get fixed; deferred maintenance gets budgeted.
What can wait after a home inspection?+
Anything in the Efficiency or Cosmetic category: aging-but-functional windows, original cabinets, dated finishes, driveway cracks, minor exterior paint, and HVAC or roof systems with 5+ years of life remaining. Document each item with photos and a service-life estimate, then place it on a year 1–3 plan rather than the negotiation list.
What inspection issues should I worry about?+
Safety hazards (electrical, gas, structural, water intrusion, fire risk), Failure-class items on major systems (roof, HVAC, water heater, panel, sewer, foundation), and anything flagged for specialist evaluation. Worry equals quantify — get a written quote inside the contingency window. Worry never equals walk-away on its own.
What inspection issues are normal?+
Hairline drywall cracks, minor caulking, settled doors, GFCI gaps in pre-2000 homes, surface efflorescence with no active moisture, dated finishes, and aging-but-functional appliances. These are documented during inspection and do not trigger negotiation. Most of the page count in a typical 40-page report is in this category.
Should I be worried about my inspection report?+
Worry only when Safety and Failure findings stack against major systems and the total cost approaches a five-figure number the seller refuses to share. Page count is not a worry signal; severity tags and dollar exposure are. Use the four-tag framework to separate them.
